Ancient Romans had a significant appetite for a particular kind of fish sauce – and a recent study has uncovered the secrets of its ingredients, revealing that it was predominantly made from sardines. The research, published in the journal Antiquity, centers around garum, a fermented fish sauce that was a staple in Roman cuisine for centuries.
Gonçalo Themudo, a biologist based in Portugal, led the study that analyzed the remains of a 1,800-year-old garum-making vat discovered at Adro Vello, an archaeological site in Galicia, Spain. At the bottom of the vat, researchers found small, fragmented fish bones – mostly vertebrae – that were remarkably well-preserved despite being over a millennium old.
The DNA recovered from these bones was intact enough to be sequenced, confirming that the sauce was primarily made from sardines. Themudo expressed surprise at the successful recovery of the DNA, noting that the process of fermentation typically damages DNA over time. The study highlights the potential of ancient DNA research in uncovering insights into historical food practices and population dynamics of fish species over time.
Garum was a cornerstone of Roman cuisine, widely exported across the empire. The local sardines used in its production were likely used to season dishes far beyond their origin, contributing to the widespread popularity of the sauce. The study also draws comparisons to modern fish sauces, noting its rich umami flavor, similar to that of soy sauce or other fermented condiments.
Themudo emphasized the significance of ancient DNA analysis in understanding the culinary and commercial aspects of ancient societies. He explained that DNA degrades over time, breaking into smaller fragments that become unreadable, but the successful recovery of the DNA from the ancient vat demonstrates the potential of this research. This study not only confirms the primary ingredient of garum but also opens new avenues for studying the historical use of fish species and their impact on ancient diets.